Hey guys,
So, yesterday was very exciting, cool, and eye-opening to me. I had my first brush with training with a power meter, and it really was an awesome experience. I had a 2 hour trainer ride I needed to do, and I set up the power meter in less than 10 minutes, and it worked right off the bat, giving me a ridiculous window into seeing my effort directly correlate into watts! Here's the review:
Overview:
So, the InRide supports Kinetic by Kurt trainers, but only a select few; the Road Machine, the Rock N' Roll Trainer, and the Pro Trainer. The way to view the power data requires an apple device, either the iPhone 4S, the iPhone 5, the iPad 3, the iPad Mini, or 5th generation iPod touches. The app is free in the App Store, and downloads quickly onto your device, and even has a sharing feature once you complete the workout to upload onto training sites, like MapMyFitness, TrainingPeaks, Garmin Connect, and more. In a nutshell, hardware inside the sensor measures speed and cadence at the wheel of your bike, and then translates that data in power using an equation. However, from my research, experience with the product, and other reviews, the meter is very accurate.
Setup
So, this is the completed product. The InRide comes in a small little cardboard cover, and includes the Sensor, Grommet, Magnet, HR Strap, HR Device, and instructions/manual to the power meter. So, with the unboxing process, it all went very quick and easy for me. The instructions are very simple and easy to follow. For those of you with Kinetic trainers, I'm sure you've noticed the little hole on the cylinder part of your flywheel: that was designed for the InRide. The only thing the boxed product lacks is a isopropyl alcohol pad, which is needed to clean the plastic area of the trainer where you will be placing the sensor.

The first few steps are very simple. I have taken pictures of the instruction booklet, as I have already installed the magnet and sensor on my own trainer. To start, you take the rubber grommet, and push it into the hole that is on the cylindrical part of your trainer, right next to the flywheel; and it should be very tight-this holds the magnet. You can use the screwdriver to push the grommet into the trainer, until it is sealed against the lip of the trainer.

Once you've installed the rubber grommet, you need to install the magnet. This is where you need your flat-headed screwdriver, because it is the easiest way to get the magnet installed. Simply snap the magnet to the metal, flat-headed edge of the screwdriver to hold the magnet steady. After you've done this, you maneuver your screwdriver over the hole in the rubber grommet, and carefully remove the screwdriver from the magnet; with the magnet staying in the grommet.

You can push the magnet in with your hand, but it is better to use the rounded part of your screwdriver to push the magnet into the grommet further, making it flush with the edge. This is very crucial that the magnet needs to be flush, otherwise it could spell some problems down the road.

Now, on to installing the sensor. This is also fairly easy, but it is much more critical, as in it is very important to where you place the sensor. First off, you need to get your hands on some isopropyl alcohol, which you can find pretty commonly(I found a cleaning pad in a first aid kit) and clean the area around where you will be placing the sensor, which is just to the left of your flywheel, in that immediate area close to the hole where you've just installed your magnet and grommet.

After you've cleaned the area, allow the alcohol to dry for a few seconds, and then get ready to install your sensor. This is the crucial part, where you have to have good placement in order for your sensor to transmit anything. The sensor must be aligned with the edges of your trainer bracket, and by all means, install the sensor so that the notch in the sensor is aligned with the magnet. This is VERY IMPORTANT, if you want your sensor to actually work.

I practiced placing the sensor before I removed the adhesive, just so I could get a good placement when I was actually placing the sensor. After you've practiced. or are confident in knowing where you need to place the sensor, you remove the adhesive on the back of the sensor, and place the sensor on the spot and press it onto the trainer and hold it for a few seconds firmly, to get a good stick,
This is my completed and installed sensor and magnet, and it took me less than 10 minutes. As soon as I was finished, I got on the trainer and started the configuration-and as it turns out the configuration wasn't as hard as I anticipated, and it took me about 2 minutes, very quick.
Configuration
*Read these pages from left to right, as it is the order of configurations*

So, this is your home page for the app, and the instructions are included in your box or on Kinetic's website. What you do is with your HR strap on, or not, depending on if you like HR data or not, you select Configuration. It is important that you have ensured your iPhone has Bluetooth enabled before starting configuration.
You then see this screen, where you can edit your workout preferences. To add your power meter and HR monitor to your device, you select Add New.


After you select Add New, this pop-up comes up, and you can select either your Watt Meter or HR first, either way works.
When you select inRide Watt Meter, it brings you to this screen, but yours will only say Add New Sensor, mine is already paired, which is why it shows Blue 2 as being On.

Once you select Add New Sensor, it brings you here, and the sensor will be found after a few seconds. Once it pairs, you select Save, and then you return to the Trainer Preferences. From here, you repeat what you've done with the Watt Meter with the HR Monitor.

This screen is similar to the inRide Watt Meter screen, but it has the HR function instead. All of the steps are the same.
The HR monitor has to be on your body in order to pick up, and once it does, it remembers the HR strap.


After pairing your two devices, you move on to the personal information input. Return to the main screen, and then select the Wrench icon in the upper right hand corner.
This brings you to a Config page, and you can input your personal information such as FTP, max HR, and your body facts, i.e. height, weight, etc.
After selecting User Profile, you can input E-mail, select unites, and input height, weight, birthdate, and gender. A cool feature I found was that the app keeps track of your HR zones, as well as your Power Zones, if you know them. Kinetic has a solution for both, with your max HR being 220-your age, and then it has an Auto-Calculate Zones feature that does the math for you, and on the Kinetic website it has a test that determines your FTP(functional threshold power), which, after you find out, has the Auto-Calculator for your power zones.

When returning to the Config page, you can select Sharing and pair your device with training sites, like those shown here. After you configure where you want to share, you're ready to ride! On the home page, all you have to do is select Get Ready, and it will bring you here. Your HR should be displayed, but power will show n/a. Don't be worried, this is normal! In the upper right hand corner, you see the letter C with an arrow going around it. Select this, and you can do a spindown, which is where you increase your speed slowly from 10mph to 21mph, and then let your trainer wheel coast down to a stop. What this does is it allows the power meter to calibrate and recognize the power and adjust accordingly, ensuring a more accurate ride.

And, finally, you're done! You are ready to ride. Go ahead and press start, and you're off-power data is displayed, as well as cadence, HR, distance, speed, and time. Also, there are multiple data screens you can scroll through. Once you finish and save a workout, you can upload it to any of your shared sites, I sent mine to TrainingPeaks. This is the Workout Details page, where you can view your ride after you've completed it. I averaged close to 200 watts for 2 hours, and it just made me dumbfounded at how pros average over 350 watts for 4+ hours, absolutely ridiculous. But it was a good tool to acquire, one I've been saving up for a long time! It really is a good option for you triathletes on a budget, like me. The inRide only costs $229.99 USD, and although it confines your workouts with power to the trainer, it is well worth it to be able to see power during your trainer rides, which I assume are pretty frequent, due to the cold.
Performance
As I started the ride, the power was not displaying at all, only my HR showed up. After a few minutes of reading some troubleshooting forums and fumbling around with the iPhone, I discovered that the watt meter had been turned off, making sense as to why nothing had been showing. So after that little bump in my set-up, I started my ride, and all of the data started up and worked well. Power was overall pretty consistent in the beginning, and seemed very congruent to my effort. Although, there was a few jumps in the power, going from a small amount to a large amount after a little lag, but nothing extremely significant, and this is typical behavior of a power meter from any company.

This is the power data from TrainingPeaks, and as you can see, there are a few spikes in power as well as a few dips, but they are not frequent and come back to being consistent quickly. Overall, for my first experience with a power meter, it seemed to do very well and I am very satisfied with its performance, and worth the price.
Overall, I hope this review helps you guys out and has some useful information! Have a great winter season on the trainers!
Happy training everybody!